My Favorite Looks From MFW Fall/Winter 2023

Image Credits: Cristina Gottardi

This edition of Milan Fashion Week had luxury brands focus heavily on sensuality, which was highlighted in many of the looks presented in the various Fall/Winter 2023 collections. A series of looks that harked back to past decades, such as the 1970s and the 1990s, in what seemed to be a return to true elegance and timeless glamour. Much reference was made to the minimal chic look of the 1990s, with petticoat dresses (think of Dolce & Gabbana’s “Sensuale” collection, a tribute to the figure of the femme fatale with its many lingerie pieces). A fashion week that witnessed Gucci’s first collection without Alessandro Michele at the helm of the brand, and the outfits were inspired by the revolutionary work done by Tom Ford in the 2000s.

Other events took place during MFW; a series of projects were presented at the Fashion Hub, such as Designers for the Planet, which hosted a number of emerging brands made in Italy that focus on sustainability in their creations. The documentary film “Milano: The Inside Story of Italian Fashion” directed by John Maggio was also screened. Dolce & Gabbana organized a vernissage in the Sala delle Cariatidi of Palazzo Reale called “Ciao, Kim!” and dedicated to American entrepreneur Kim Kardashian.

Giorgio Armani inaugurated at the Armani Silos “Guy Bourdin: Storyteller”, an exhibition dedicated to the French fashion photographer, which will be open to the public until the end of August.

Due to my many commitments related to the sales campaign I was unable to attend this fashion week in person so I didn’t get to see many industry friends but from what I have heard they were very pleased with the fashion events they attended. However, during my only afternoon off work I had the opportunity to visit a retrospective at Palazzo Reale dedicated to photographer Vincent Peters, which closed a couple of days ago. This was a wonderful visual experience and I will talk about it soon on the website. In the meantime, here are my seven favorite looks from this MFW edition:

Ermanno Scervino FW 2023 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Daniele Oberrauch /

1) ERMANNO SCERVINO: Ermanno Scervino’s collection presented a harmonious palette, with colors that ranged from white, dark gray, light blue (in this case a shade of washed-out denim), lime and ruby red to close the show with a series of garments in black. The collection was inspired by the designer’s love of cinema, particularly the sensuality of Ava Gardner. Solid-color dresses designed for an hourglass figure, with masculine oversize shapes in jackets and coats. Coats that are big and soft, to be worn over miniskirts or leggings. The Tuscan brand’s press kit explained, “Fall 2023 is a linear collection, with impeccable shapes, as rigorous as a painter’s canvas where Ermanno Scervino designs precious workmanship, manipulates fabrics, drapes lambskin, carves jersey and knitwear.” I have really enjoyed the masculine-cut tailored jackets worn over loose-fitting pants, so I couldn’t help but choose this look in ruby red (red has been a very present color in the next Fall/Winter collections), which plays with transparencies in a fine way and is elegant in every aspect.

Giorgio Armani FW 2023 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Daniele Oberrauch /

2) GIORGIO ARMANI: when talking about minimal chic in terms of fashion and design one cannot help but think of Armani, because minimalism has always distinguished the Italian House’s identity and aesthetic. The layered collection presented at Teatro Armani was titled Cipria (face powder in Italian) and was an homage to women’s beauty rituals; the model who closed the show walked the runway while touching up her face with powder). The sartorial garments were inspired by the Orient, which has always influenced the Armani universe (I have already talked about this on the website in my Armani Silos article, where I mentioned the designer’s collaboration with Japanese architect Tadao Andō). The colors in the collection were soft; the many beige garments that opened the show were true sartorial masterpieces, and many of the models were wearing black berets. The color pink was present in a number of garments, confirming itself as a trend for the upcoming fall/winter season as well. One of the first looks featured a faux-fur coat with a beautiful animalier effect, something rarely seen in an Armani collection. The homage to layering fashion, born in the 2000s, was rediscovered in a series of layered outfits that looked elegant and refined, especially in the color combinations. I love this layered look for its wonderful shades of beige and the cut of the coat, with those touches of black giving harmony to the whole ensemble.


My Favorite Looks From NYFW Fall/Winter 2023/24

Image Credits: Colton Duke

New York Fashion Week has always been a great promoter of freedom and thinking outside the box, and in presenting the Fall 2023 collections as well, it did not disappoint, enhancing individuality and originality with looks that allow the wearer to fully express their personality. Examples of this were the looks presented by the brand Area (especially the outfit in fuchsia composed of three-dimensional bananas) and Prabal Gurung’s butterfly motifs that were printed and knitted on dresses and sweaters ranging from pink to turquoise, colors that always seem to return in the designer’s collections. Butterflies that were meant to convey the beauty and fragility of impermanence, which the designer reflected on during a ten-day silent retreat, when he also encountered a butterfly. I was very impressed by Prabal Gurung’s sophisticated Fall 2023 Ready-To-Wear collection (showcased at New York City’s Rainbow Room), with its blouses in sheer tulle and draped dresses, as he envisions “a woman that needs to incorporate elements of sensuality in all aspects of her life”.

I find the beauty of American fashion to be just that; its being genuine and devoid of particular sartorial rules, aiming for eclecticism and authentic self-expression while freely mixing colors, fabrics and different types of craftsmanship.

It is impossible for me to select all the looks I have enjoyed during NYFW so I have chosen 7 looks from different designers, as with the latest fashion week editions:

Proenza Schouler Fall 2023 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Jonas Gustavsson.

1) PROENZA SCHOULER: the show was opened by actress Chloe Sevigny, who has been wearing Proenza Schouler since the two designers started out 20 years ago. The collection was presented inside a renovated garage in Chelsea and reinterpreted the meaning of chic; almost completely print-free (apart from some recycled silks from the maison’s archival material) and sequin-finished dresses. A collection characterized by a modern wardrobe, suitable for the working woman in a big-city environment; the collection also presented a series of tweed coats with a modern twist. The soundtrack of the fashion show consisted of Chloe Sevigny’s voice reading some diary fragments written by author Ottessa Moshfegh in a kind of inner monologue. Overall I found it to be a very chic collection, with quasi-minimal looks devoid of excessive ornamentation; I particularly liked this total black outfit, which is elegant and sporty at the same time, especially for the way it plays with transparencies.

Naeem Khan Fall 2023 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Isidore Montag /

2) NAEEM KHAN: this show was Naeem Khan’s celebration of his 20th anniversary as a standalone brand and it was an important milestone in a career that spanned nearly 50 years and began when the designer was an apprentice at Halston. The Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection was designed to enhance not only the clothes but also the women who wear them. The Indian-American designer comes from a family of textile professionals, so he is a great connoisseur of fabrics, having access to artisans who are able to create extraordinary pieces. This collection has something regal and incredibly glamorous about it, and the opening looks also paid homage to the generation of New Yorkers who enjoyed going out to dance, the same generation to which the designer belongs. One only has to take a quick glance at the collection to realize the incredible quality of tailoring that each dress possesses. It is rare that I like each look equally and consider each look as something I would personally wear, but that is what happened with this show. In any case, I am a huge fan of blue in all its shades so I feel compelled to choose this look that I consider the epitome of glamour and that I believe has something truly magical about it.


My Favorite Looks From LFW Spring/Summer 2023

Image credits: Lucas Davies

The London Fashion Week – September 2022 edition took place only a few days from the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, so plenty of shows and events planned for this fashion week were canceled and creative directors paid homage to the Queen through looks showcased on the runway (like JW Anderson, who closed his show with a model wearing a black t-shirt that had the inscription “Her Majesty The Queen, 1926 – 2022, Thank you.”).

Overall, London Fashion Week was brimming with creativity; this was evidenced by the designers experimenting with colors and different materials, like sequins and lace.

Here are my favorite looks from LFW Spring/Summer 2023:

Molly Godard SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Daniele Oberrauch /

1) MOLLY GODDARD: the entire S/S 2023 collection designed by Molly Goddard had fairytale vibes, with romantic looks and contrasting materials; there was a layer of tulle over most of the clothes seen on the runway and the models were carrying ruffled bags. This was also the debut of the designer’s first menswear collection, which had many elements in common with the womenswear line; ruffled fabrics and fluorescent colors were the main characters of S/S 2023 in Molly Goddard’s universe. The designer said in the backstage: “I love contrasting colors, prints and textures.” Her main goal was to create an immersive experience for the audience at the show, combining people, colors and music elements in a harmonious way.

I enjoy the outfit in the picture above because of the ruffles on the pants and the large, fluorescent bag (the giant-bag trend is still going strong and my mother appreciates this so much!).

JW Anderson SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Isidore Montag /

2) JW ANDERSON: the British designer chose a very original location for the show, next to his London flagship store; Las Vegas Arcade, a popular casino in the middle of Soho, where the models walked the runway surrounded by slot machines. The clothes had 90s vibes, and the designer showcased a series of dresses with bizarre prints like a goldfish in a plastic bag (as shown in the image above), photos of dolphins, sunsets and beaches, which were basically stock digital pictures on the web, borrowed from Getty Images.