My Favorite Looks From PFW Spring/Summer 2023

Image Credits: Léonard Cotte

Recently I have written an homage to Paris for my Story Behind the Picture section. The French city is often considered the capital of European fashion (some people think this title belongs to Milan or London but the strong influence of the legendary French couturiers on modern fashion is still relevant to this day) and Paris Fashion Week has always been the ultimate celebration of haute couture and prêt-à-porter.

Among the most defining moments of this fashion week were Jacquemus opening his first eponymous store at 58 Avenue Montaigne, Victoria Beckham’s PFW debut with her S/S 2023 collection and model Bella Hadid having a dress spray-painted on her for the closing of the Coperni show.

Being from Milan, I got to live the atmosphere of Milan Fashion Week over the years and I have recently talked about my MFW experience; however, I have been envisioning Paris Fashion Week as something magical and extremely fascinating ever since I started reading fashion show reviews on Italian magazine Book Moda in 2007; every designer who presented their collections at PFW seemed to reflect the style I was looking to embrace. I have always been attracted by French style because my mother has always dressed like a Parisian woman and I have often looked up to her for my own wardrobe choices (except for a few experiments during my teenage years!), so I was eagerly waiting to see what this edition had in store.

Below I have rounded up my favorite looks from PFW S/S 2023:

Saint Laurent SS23/ Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Filippo Fior /

1) SAINT LAURENT: Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2023 was all about physicality and celebrating the body. The main inspiration for this collection was 80s Grace Jones and the entire show was built on the concept of length; the outerwear was predominantly oversize, with the coats replacing the clothes as the main stars of the show. This created a series of powerful looks that were impossible to take your eyes off of; the color palette was the epitome of elegance, with camels, purples, olives, tobacco shades and soft browns. The shoes were barely noticeable due to the length of the dresses and coats and they ranged from minimal sandals to satiny pumps; this brought the audience’s gaze to focus on the width of the shoulders and the length of the outfits.

The nightly-lit Eiffel Tower was the perfect backdrop for this show, whose setting included also the Fontaine de Varsovie in the Jardins du Trocadéro; due to the rhythmic soundtrack, the atmosphere was quite dramatic and suitable for the clothes that were shown. The whole collection combined Vaccarello’s minimalism with the sensuality and elegance that are so typical of Yves Saint Laurent’s style. It was dark, it was glamorous and it was so difficult to pick just one particular look because I fell in love with every double-breasted coat I was seeing on the runway (the long black dress was amazing, too). The ensemble pictured above spoke to me, with the gloves and sunglasses adding a touch of mystery to the whole outfit in the best possible way.

Loewe SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Daniele Oberrauch /

2) LOEWE: a symbol of love and passion, the anthurium flower made of giant fiberglass was literally growing from the floor for the setting of Loewe S/S 2023 and was made to creatively represent the connection between nature and technology, the latter being evident with the introduction of pixelated hoodies and t-shirts on the runway.

Jonathan Anderson brought this collection to life looking at the flower’s sensuality, seen both as a part of nature and an element of design. The flower was everywhere, from the dresses to the tops and the shoes, which ranged from high heels décolletés to braided and texturized red sandals which resembled the petals of a flower.


Throwback Thursday: My Experience At Milan Fashion Week Over The Years

Image Credits: Michael Gostner

As I mentioned in the article about my favorite looks from MFW Spring / Summer 2023, today’s Throwback Thursday is dedicated to my experience at Milan Fashion Week over the years.

My father has been working as a fashion agent and showroom manager since the early 1990s; his first showrooms were in Milano Fiera and the Tortona District. He then went on to work for the Italian brand Via delle Perle and opened a new showroom in Via Montenapoleone (Quadrilatero della Moda, which is basically the Fashion District).

I have always been fascinated by his work and I followed his path, as I am now a fashion consultant and marketing manager for our company (aside from doing some freelance photography work).

I was about thirteen years old when I started attending fashion week in Milan; it was during the September edition in 2008, when fashion week wasn’t even called so. Everyone referred to it as “Milano Vende Moda”, which means “Milan Sells Fashion” in Italian, and it took place in the Milano Fiera District (Via Gattamelata), where all the major fashion shows and events were organized; this went on until 2010, when fashion shows began to take place all around the city. Like today, fashion week was convened and sponsored by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) and it attracted numerous people from the international fashion industry.

I grew up with fashion thanks to my father’s job and looking at my mother, who’s always had a French style, for fashion advice; anyway, when you’re a teenager you generally feel the need to discover your own fashion tastes, so for me it was all about experimenting. I won’t post pictures of my first fashion week outfit because it was taken at home before going out, so the light was all wrong (I was wearing low-waist pants, a bare midriff top and a big white D&G belt, an outfit that was highly influenced by early 2000s fashion), but I enjoy looking at that picture today and seeing how my style and sense of fashion has evolved over the years.

In September 2008 I had the chance to attend my first fashion shows with Samuelle Daves, a late friend of my father’s and one of his closest collaborators back in the day. Samuelle was also one of the editors at BOOK Moda Magazine and he was my first mentor; he was hard-working, sensitive and intelligent and I am incredibly grateful for the opportunities he gave me when I was still very young. He used to introduce me to people as his “junior fashion editor” and even sent me to some shows he couldn’t attend because he was busy working at the magazine.

Love Sex Money by Lorella Signorino SS 2009

My Favorite Looks From MFW Spring/Summer 2023

Image Credits: Federico Di Dio

The Spring/Summer 2023 edition of Milan Fashion Week had many different key moments, like the massive Moncler show that took place in the Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) complete with dancers, singers and musicians to celebrate the brand’s 70th anniversary. Salvatore Ferragamo changed its name to simply “Ferragamo” (this resulting in the change of the brand logo, too) and Maximilian Davis debuted as Ferragamo’s new creative director. Among this edition’s guests were Paris Hilton, closing the show for Versace, and Kim Kardashian, who curated the Dolce & Gabbana new collection for the “Ciao, Kim!” fashion show.

I wasn’t at fashion week in attendance this year because I’m currently doing back office work for both my consulting agency and one of the showrooms in the city; the days were quite busy and I was sorry to not be able to attend some of the shows.

Nonetheless, I still managed to follow them online (thank God for streaming!) and I have now picked my favorite looks from MFW S/S 2023. It was very hard to do so, since I loved many pieces from different collections, but I hope you will enjoy the ones I have chosen.

Also, stay tuned for this week’s Throwback Thursday post, which is going to focus on my experience at fashion week over the years (starting when it wasn’t even called fashion week!).

Antonio Marras SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Salvatore Dragone /

1) ANTONIO MARRAS: this was one of the fashion shows to open Milan Fashion Week; Antonio Marras had been absent from the last editions and the designer’s return coincided with the brand being acquired by Calzedonia, one of the biggest Italian manufacturing groups, which chose to invest in this luxury brand.

The collection was named “Il Teatro dell’Opera” (Opera Theatre) and it was dedicated to Marras’s love for opera and Maria Callas, to whom he paid homage at the end of the show with a few custom-made pieces. Green was one of the key colors in the designer’s vision for S/S 2023, which focused on a sort of renaissance of theatricality; the show was inspired by the imaginary search for an abandoned theatre in the heart of Sardinia, the designer’s native region. Nature took over and became its own character in this défilé, as shown in the floral print look above, which I find very exotic and elegant.

Roberto Cavalli SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Isidore Montag /

2) ROBERTO CAVALLI: Fausto Puglisi, the house’s creative director, presented a dream-like collection which stayed true to the essence of the brand, heavily influenced by animal prints and baroque paintings. The collection was inspired by the Golden Age of Hollywood (mainly the 1940s and ’50s)and its glorious costume designers Edith Head and Gilbert Adrian; Puglisi talked about it backstage, mentioning the time he spent studying the Adrian jackets at the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa, since they are part of the legendary couturier’s collection of fashion memorabilia. Puglisi looked at this period of time not only because of how magnificent it was in terms of style innovations, but also because he wanted to convey some of the era’s optimism, as we are living in a post-Covid age, defined by the war in Ukraine and the economical crisis.


My Favorite Looks From LFW Spring/Summer 2023

Image credits: Lucas Davies

The London Fashion Week – September 2022 edition took place only a few days from the passing of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, so plenty of shows and events planned for this fashion week were canceled and creative directors paid homage to the Queen through looks showcased on the runway (like JW Anderson, who closed his show with a model wearing a black t-shirt that had the inscription “Her Majesty The Queen, 1926 – 2022, Thank you.”).

Overall, London Fashion Week was brimming with creativity; this was evidenced by the designers experimenting with colors and different materials, like sequins and lace.

Here are my favorite looks from LFW Spring/Summer 2023:

Molly Godard SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Daniele Oberrauch /

1) MOLLY GODDARD: the entire S/S 2023 collection designed by Molly Goddard had fairytale vibes, with romantic looks and contrasting materials; there was a layer of tulle over most of the clothes seen on the runway and the models were carrying ruffled bags. This was also the debut of the designer’s first menswear collection, which had many elements in common with the womenswear line; ruffled fabrics and fluorescent colors were the main characters of S/S 2023 in Molly Goddard’s universe. The designer said in the backstage: “I love contrasting colors, prints and textures.” Her main goal was to create an immersive experience for the audience at the show, combining people, colors and music elements in a harmonious way.

I enjoy the outfit in the picture above because of the ruffles on the pants and the large, fluorescent bag (the giant-bag trend is still going strong and my mother appreciates this so much!).

JW Anderson SS23 / Vogue Runway. Image Credits: Isidore Montag /

2) JW ANDERSON: the British designer chose a very original location for the show, next to his London flagship store; Las Vegas Arcade, a popular casino in the middle of Soho, where the models walked the runway surrounded by slot machines. The clothes had 90s vibes, and the designer showcased a series of dresses with bizarre prints like a goldfish in a plastic bag (as shown in the image above), photos of dolphins, sunsets and beaches, which were basically stock digital pictures on the web, borrowed from Getty Images.