As usual, New York Fashion Week was the first edition to open fashion month; it started on September 9 and ended on September 14, also including the Vogue World event on September 12, in celebration of Vogue Magazine’s 130th anniversary. The Vogue World runway show saw famous guests like models Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk and tennis star Serena Williams (who just announced her retirement from the tour) gracing the Meatpacking District catwalk. Italian luxury brand Fendi also organized a Resort 2023 runway show in New York in order to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Fendi “Baguette” bag, made famous by Sex and the City.
During NYFW the greatest American designers introduced their Spring/Summer 2023 collections to the world, giving the audience plenty of ideas and inspirational looks.
Here are my favorite looks from NFW S/S 2023, listed in no particular order:
1)VERONICA BEARD: last year I bought a tweed skirt and jacket by Veronica Beard, the same ones worn by Savannah Lee Smith in Gossip Girl. I always enjoy the looks presented by this American fashion duo, who chose to focus on tailoring as the key element of the show. This green ensemble was part of a series of colorful suits and vests which showcased the brand’s glamorous functionality and versatility.
2)MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION: Michael Kors very rarely, if ever, disappoints. His S/S 2023 collection is an homage to the 70s, meant to free the body and give precedence to sensuality, which is particularly evidenced by the total red looks. The designer cited Halston among his greatest inspirations for this show, whose collections were always a celebration of the woman’s body; its plunging necklines and cutaways are being reintroduced by Michael Kors for the next warm season. The look I chose as my favorite evokes the outfits worn by Amy Adams in the movie American Hustle and it perfectly embodies the spirit of the 70s. Gladiator sandals are also making a comeback!
3) NORMA KAMALI: I am a huge fan of this label and I have enjoyed everything Norma Kamali has done so far, including the collection she designed in collaboration with Revolve. For Spring/Summer 2023 the designer opted for strong colors, mainly pink, metallic elements and soft silhouettes. Her outfits, including the high-cut swimsuits, are quintessentially American in their elegance and glamour. Kamali explained to Vogue, “I don’t want people to feel bad because they spent too much money on clothing; I want them to have collectibles and things that will make them feel good” and this is always appreciated, mainly because it makes fashion more accessible and introduces her collections to a larger part of the market.
4) TOM FORD: it was quite difficult to choose just one specific look from Tom Ford S/S 2023 because I love every single one of them. This collection was evocative of his first fashion shows as the creative director of Gucci in the 90s, with shiny sweatshirts and blazers with sequined hearts and stars worn over silver tops or see-through triangle bras. The silver micro shorts complete the glamour of this look in a collection which focuses on laminated fabrics and bold transparencies, a nod to the 80s and in particular to Studio 54.
5) CAROLINA HERRERA: the fashion show took place at the Plaza Hotel, which was also where the brand presented its first collection back in 1984. Carolina Herrera S/S 2023 is an homage to nature, which was inspired by Frances Hodgson Burnett’s novel The Secret Garden, cherished by Herrera’s creative director Wes Gordon. Most of the outfits (including the one I picked, a flower dress with a waist-cinching belt) are like a blossoming garden, with floral prints on monochromatic backgrounds in a variety of materials, like chiné and cotton gabardine, and celebrate the beauty of nature in a wonderful way.
6) BRANDON MAXWELL: Brandon Maxwell S/S 2023 is another collection reminiscent of the natural world and this is probably due to designer’s recent move outside the city. He managed to find some time to focus on his work while surrounded by nature and this has clearly been inspirational for his designs, too. This look really speaks to me with its simple yet elegant allure (there is also an almost identical outfit which sees the pants switched in favor of a short floral skirt). The chic minimalist layers and relaxed silhouettes are not only evocative of 90s minimalism but also a modernization of casual daywear. The pastel colors give the entire collection a peaceful and dreamy aura.
7) TORY BURCH: focusing on minimalism and chic sensuality, Tory Burch S/S 2023 collection looks back at 90s New York, when the fashion designer first came to the city. The show took place on a Hudson River pier and there was a huge range of practical outfits, like the high-wasted jeans and black blouse, that help create a fresh, glamorous look (I am not a fan of total black except for evening looks but I do appreciate mixing black elements with denim or white pieces, so I would definitely choose an outfit like this). Tory Burch said to Vogue:“I started thinking about when I first moved to New York in the 90s. […] We spent a lot of time developing fabrics that had all kinds of stretch and pieces that you could wear in different ways.” The entire collection encapsulates how you can be sporty and elegant at the same time.
Additional notes:
The images in this post link to the Vogue Runway website, where you will find all NYFW SS2023 collections.
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